Chrysler 4659520 Pan-TRANSAXLE Differential Oil

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To get rid of the oil pan one must first loosen the cable from the negative terminal of the battery next lift the car and secure it on stands then unscrew the engine shield plate. Suction the engine oil on the engine and pull off the oil filter adapter on 2.0L engines or from the oil pan of 2.4L DOHC engines then the structural collar together with the RD brace for the lateral bending. On the turbocharged models, unbolt the charge air cooler hose from the turbocharger and unscrew the oil cooler connector bolt while leaving the oil cooler lines connected and place them to side. DIY on 2.4L DOHC engines requires the removal of the lower torque strut as well as taking off the flywheel/details driveplate inspection cover. Take the mounting bolts M6 and lower the oil pan; in case it is rigid, use a soft-face hammer or block of timber to knock it lightly. One has to be very careful not to harm the two gasket surfaces. Afterward, it is advisable to pull out the oil pump pick up tube and screen to wash and replace with new screen with a new seal. Scrap off deposits and apply cleaning materials on the outer and inner surfaces of the oil pan so as to remove all the gasket materials and also check for any distortion. After cleaning up, a dabs of R1V sealant 1/8-inch should then be applied at the cylinder block to oil pump assembly joint followed by the fitment of a new oil pan gasket and oil pan installation and bolting of the oil pan bolts to the recommended torque. For 2.0L engine and its installation with structural collar and lateral bending brace, torque the bolts to the specified values. For 2.4L, no matter with automatic or manual transaxles, the structural collar and lateral bending brace must be installed in accordance with procedures of work, after installation must be tightened all of the bolts until reaching the action of hand and then applying the specified torque. Last but not the least, the process is reverse of the removal and fill the crankcase with the appropriate oil, starts the engine to check for leakage and road testing to ensure that all the parts and components are working optimally.

To perform this type of work the first step is to unbolt the negative battery cable from the ground stud on the left shock tower of the truck and then lift the truck and set it on jackstands. Pull the accessory drivebelt splash shield and empty the engine oil. Subsequently, two bolts securing the front of the transmission support bracket can be ejected, and then the front engine mount as well as the strut can be detached; on the 2.4L engines, the engineers left the engine support module in place if it was installed. If possible, take off the structural collar, connecting the transaxle to the oil pan; for engines of 2.0 liter, take off the inspection cover of the transaxle, oil filter and adapter if the automobile is equipped with air conditioning system. Unwind and unbolt the mounting in a cross-wise direction and then slowly pull down the oil pan off the car in a manner that does not affect the sealing surface of the gasket. Take out the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly and discard the O-ring seal then clean the assembly well. It is necessary to clean all sealing surfaces on the oil pan and block, and remove all gasket materials and check for ovality. As for installation, a new O-ring shall be fitted on the oil pick-up tube and then the latter has to be bolted onto the oil pump housing with the tension of the bolt up to the prescribed value. Be sure, then, to use a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant on the cylinder block-oil pump assembly joint, and put on a new oil pan gasket. Place the oil pan and then engage the bolts such that they are tightened slightly, then progress from the center outward in a rotational manner. In the front engine mount ready to attach, for 1998 2.4L engines the front engine mount strut &collar should be secured by tightening the bolts in a sequence manner. For 1997 2.4L and 1998 and later 2.0L engines instal the oil pan-to-transaxle structural collar and fasten the bolts in three steps to the drain bolt torque, as follows. Again return through the disassembly steps, add the correct oil into the crankcase, engage the engine to ensure there are no leaks and subject the car through road test to confirm the absence of leaks.

To remove the oil pan, the first thing to do is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery; and then lift the car, placing it on jackstands. Inclined to be the accessory drivebelt splash shield and expel the engine oil. After that, remove the front engine mount bracket and undoing the nuts which secures the structural collar to the engine, oil pan, and transaxle. For the model with air-conditioning, then remove the compressor bracket to oil pan bolt. To free and unbolt, a criss-cross pattern should be the pattern of choice, after which the oil pan should be disengaged from the vehicle and if sticky should be coaxed down gently with a soft-faced hammer. Do not mar the gasket surfaces in any way. Retain the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly: clean them and throw the O-ring seal away. Machine or scrape the sealing surfaces on the oil pan and block free of old gasket and examine for warpage. During assembling a new O-ring should be fitted onto the oil pick-up tube and then screwed into the housing of the oil pump and tightened with the recommended torque. Run a line of RTV sealant at the cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint and fit a new oil pan gasket. Alight the oil pan and loosely install the bolts, tighten the bolts with the side by side motion beginning from the center. For a/c models, fit the compressor bracket bolt. Fix the structural collar into place by sliding into the space where it is required and tightening the bolts by hand only before using the wrench to change the torque to the required standard. Put back the front engine mount bracket; undo the rest of the procedures stated above; put the right oil in the crankcase; start the car and check for any signs of leakage; for the last procedure, take the car for a test drive with all external features in check.

In order to remove the oil pan, one has to first disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Lift the front of the car and rest it on jackstands, engage the parking brake and use the blocks for the rear wheels to avoid moving. Siphon off the engine oil and then unbolt the cross brace for engine/transaxle. Then, remove the lower driveplate cover and then remove the starter. To remove the oil pan from the engine block it must be unbolted from the block and while doing this there is no need to pry between the oil pan and the block. If the pan is stuck then strike the same gently with soft face hammer in order to break the gasket seal and if required with help of putty knife separate the surfaces without scratching the same. During installation then; clean the oil pan & the engine block mating areas adequately; to ensure you have got rid of the old sealant & gasket material. Thoroughly examine the oil pan flange if it is distorted or out of shape and install a tool to flatten it. Cowl the timing chain cover and other sections containing the rear main oil seal retainer using RTV sealant; replace the oil pan flange gasket. Insert and fit the oil pan on to the engine block and install the nuts and bolts in a random fashion to the torque necessary. Last but not the least, replace the other parts in reversed manner than of their removal, fill the engine with oil of the required grade, start the engine and let it warm up and look for any signs of leakage.

Warm up the engine, then drain the oil and replace the oil filter. Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan to the engine block. Tap on the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal, then detach the oil pan from the engine, avoiding prying between the block and oil pan mating surfaces. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket or sealant from the engine block and oil pan, and remove the seals from each end of the engine block or oil pan. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone, ensuring the threaded bolt holes in the block are clean. Clean the oil pan with solvent and dry it thoroughly, checking the gasket flanges for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket surfaces. Install new seals in the retainers at the front and rear of the engine block, applying a 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan gasket surfaces and continuing the bead across the end seals, ensuring the sealant is applied to the inside of the bolt holes. Carefully place the oil pan in position, then install the bolts and tighten them in 1/4-turn increments to the specified torque, starting with the bolts closest to the center of the pan and working out in a spiral pattern, avoiding overtightening to prevent leakage. Finally, add oil, run the engine, and check for oil leaks.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the engine protection cover. Drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter adapter from the engine block, and take off the structural collar and the intake manifold support bracket. Remove the flywheel/driveplate inspection cover, then remove the mounting bolts and lower the oil pan from the vehicle, taking care to tap it gently with a soft-face hammer or a wood block if it is stuck. Exercise caution to avoid damaging the gasket surfaces. Next, remove the oil pump pickup tube and screen assembly, clean both thoroughly, and install them with a new seal. Clean the oil pan and sealing surfaces on the block and pan, ensuring all old gasket material is removed, and check for distortion. After cleaning, apply a 1/8-inch bead of ATV sealant at the cylinder block-to-oil pump assembly joint at the oil pan flange and install a new oil pan gasket. Position the oil pan and install the bolts finger tight, then tighten them to the specified torque while working side-to-side from the center out. Install the intake manifold support bracket and tighten the bolts securely. For the structural collar, place it in position between the transaxle and the oil pan, tightening the collar-to-oil pan bolts to about 30 in-lbs, then install and tighten the collar-to-transaxle bolts to 80 ft-lbs, and finally torque the structural collar-to-oil pan bolts to 40 ft-lbs.

Apply a 1/8-inch bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan and a light coating to the underside of the oil pan bolt heads.

Position the oil pan and install the bolts finger tight, then tighten them in a side-to-side pattern from the center out.

Clean the oil pan and engine block mating surfaces thoroughly, removing all old sealant and gasket material. Check the oil pan flange for distortion and flatten it if needed.

Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.

Ensure the threaded holes in the block are clean, apply a small amount of sealant to the oil pump-to-block and rear seal retainer-to-block junctions, and a thin continuous bead along the oil pan flange.