Chrysler 4273275 Seal-CRANKSHAFT Oil

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Remove the transaxle. In case the car has a manual transaxle, the clutch proper and the flywheel should be detached. In the case of an automatic transaxle, the driveplate has to be removed from the vehicle. The Crankshaft Seal should come off by prying it off by using the flat edge of the screwdriver; be very much careful not to harm the crankshaft or the seal retainer bore. Wipe the seal bore in the seal housing with shop towel until it is free from oil dirt and debris. Coat the lips of the new seal with engine oil or multi-purpose grease and place the seal over the terminal end of the crankshaft with its lips turned towards the engine and use the plastic hammer to gently drive it home. Mount the driveplate or flywheel and clutch, before fitting the transaxle.

With the timing belt and sprockets, the oil pan, and the intermediate shaft sprocket removed for access, unbolt and remove the oil seal housing retaining bolts for both the 2.2L (top) and 2.5L front oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old oil seal from the housing. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the inner surface of the housing, place the new seal in position, and carefully tap it into place with a soft-face hammer. Lubricate the inner circumference of the seal with white lithium-base grease and apply a 1 mm bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surfaces of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.

Drain the engine oil, then remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the oil pan; note that it is possible to remove the seal without taking off the oil pan if a special seal puller tool is used. Working underneath the vehicle, remove the bolts and detach the oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old seal out of the housing, ensuring not to damage the seal bore by wrapping the tip of the punch with tape. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the housing and the seal journal on the end of the crankshaft, removing small burrs with emery cloth or 400-grit sandpaper. If a groove has been worn in the seal journal from contact with the seal lip, installing a new seal may not stop the leak, indicating that the crankshaft or the main bearings may be excessively worn, suggesting an engine overhaul is needed. Apply a thin coat of R1V sealant to the surface of the seal bore, lay the housing on a clean, flat work surface, position the new seal in the bore, and tap it into place with a soft-face hammer, ensuring the seal lip faces the proper direction towards the engine. Lubricate the seal lip with multi-purpose grease and apply a 1 mm wide bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surface of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Reinstall the crankshaft sprocket, timing belt, and related components, then install the oil pan. Check the engine oil level and add oil if necessary. Start the engine, let it warm up, and check for leaks.

The rear Crankshaft Seal is pressed into a bore machined into the rear main bearing cap and engine block. Begin by removing the driveplate, ensuring that the Crankshaft Seal is installed flush with the outer surface of the block. Carefully pry out the old seal using a flat blade screwdriver, taking care not to nick or scratch the sealing surfaces on the crankshaft or seal bore to prevent an oil leak. Thoroughly clean the crankshaft and seal bore in the block, de-greasing them with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone, and do not lubricate the lip or outer diameter of the new seal; it must be installed dry as it comes from the manufacturer. Position the new seal on the crankshaft with the words "THIS SIDE OUT" facing outward, and use an appropriate size driver and pilot tool to drive the seal into the cylinder block until it is flush with the outer surface. Ensure the seal is not driven in past flush to avoid an oil leak. Finally, installation of the remaining components follows the reverse order of removal.

Do not rotate the camshaft(s) or crankshaft when the timing belt is removed or damage to the engine may occur. Begin by removing the timing belt. Next, detach the crankshaft timing belt sprocket from the crankshaft using a bolt-type gear puller, and remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft keyway. From below the right inner fender, carefully pry the seal out of its bore, taking care to avoid damaging the oil pump assembly, the crankshaft, and the seal bore. Clean and inspect the seal bore and sealing surface on the crankshaft; minor imperfections can be removed with emery cloth, but if a groove is worn in the sealing surface, a new seal may not stop the leak. Lubricate the new seal with engine oil and use a hammer and the appropriate size socket to drive the seal into the bore until it is flush with the oil pump housing. Install the Woodruff key and the crankshaft timing belt sprocket with the word FRONT facing out on the crankshaft. The crankshaft timing sprocket must be installed with special tool 6792 to ensure correct timing belt tracking; incorrect installation may lead to timing belt damage. Finally, reinstall the remaining components in reverse order of removal and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

The crankshaft has to be placed, and the main bearing caps have to be screwed on before the new Crankshaft Seal and housing can be fitted onto the block. The first step is to take out the old Crankshaft Seal from the housing using hammer and punch, inserted from the rear end but be careful not to mar the seal bore; measure the extent the old Crankshaft Seal is recessed which should match the depth it gets recessed for the new Crankshaft Seal. When this is done ensure that the entire housing is clean and use a thin coat of engine oil on the outer edge of the new Crankshaft Seal that should be fitted squarely into the housing bore. If a press is not available, place one piece of housing over the Crankshaft Seal and the other piece immediately adjacent to the Crankshaft Seal and then place two flat pieces of wood over the top of the assembly and use a large vise to force the wood into the Crankshaft Seal or, another technique that can be used is placing the housing on a bench and then using a block of wood and a hammer to drive the Crankshaft Seal in to the housing, taking care to flatten out Next use anaerobic sealant at the upper part of the retainer and the housing before fitting the housing over the crankshaft and bolting it on the block, but the seal lips should be lubricated using clean engine oil or multi purpose grease. Last of all, turn the housing bolts in a clockwise manner until all of the housing bolts are properly secured.

With the timing belt and sprockets, the oil pan, and the intermediate shaft sprocket removed for access, unbolt and remove the oil seal housing retaining bolts for both the 2.2L (top) and 2.5L front oil seal housing. Use a punch and hammer to drive the old oil seal from the housing. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the inner surface of the housing, place the new seal in position, and carefully tap it into place with a soft-face hammer. Lubricate the inner circumference of the seal with white lithium-base grease and apply a 1 mm bead of anaerobic gasket sealant to the engine block mating surfaces of the seal housing. Position the housing on the engine, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque.

The first step is to disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Install the retainer and tighten the retainer bolts to the specified torque. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal.

Note how the seal is installed; the new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way.

Ensure the housing is clean and apply a thin coat of engine oil to the outer edge of the new seal.

Installation of the remaining components follows the reverse order of removal.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft surface.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.

Reinstall the remaining components in reverse order of removal and tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the specified torque.

If a groove has been worn in the seal journal from contact with the seal lip, installing a new seal may not stop the leak, indicating that the crankshaft or the main bearings may be excessively worn, suggesting an engine overhaul is needed.

Place the retainer in a bench vise and pry out the old seal using a screwdriver.

In cases of severe corrosion, drill and tap two holes into the face of the sprocket and use a bolt-type puller to remove it, ensuring not to reuse a drilled sprocket.

Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the seal housing with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt.

Ensure the seal enters the bore squarely and stop when the front face is at the proper depth.