Mopar 4556224 CRANKSHAFT

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The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel or driveplate, crankshaft balancer/vibration damper, timing chain or belt, oil pan, oil pump, counterbalance shafts (if equipped), and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been detached. Before removal, check the endplay by mounting a dial indicator with the stem aligned with the crankshaft, touching one of the crank throws. Push the crankshaft to the rear and zero the dial indicator, then pry it to the front and check the reading; the distance moved indicates the endplay. If it exceeds the specified value, inspect the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear, and if no wear is found, new main bearings should resolve the issue. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used by prying or pushing the crankshaft to the front and slipping the gauges between the crankshaft and the thrust main bearing to measure clearance. Check the main bearing caps for markings indicating their locations, which should be numbered consecutively from front to rear; if not, mark them with number stamping dies or a center-punch, ensuring to make the punch marks near one of the bolt heads. Main bearing caps typically have a cast-in arrow pointing to the front of the engine. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts gradually until they can be removed by hand, noting any stud bolts for proper reinstallation. Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer to separate them from the engine block, using the bolts as levers if necessary, and take care not to drop the bearing inserts. Finally, carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine, ideally with assistance due to its weight, and with the bearing inserts in place, return the caps to their respective locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts finger tight.

The oil holes in the block must align with those in the bearing inserts, and no lubrication should be used at this time.

An automotive machine shop may repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve, but if repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed.

Loosen the main bearing cap bolts gradually until they can be removed by hand, noting any stud bolts for proper reinstallation.

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file, or scraper to ensure sharp edges don't gouge or scratch the new bearings.

The bolts should be tightened to the specified torque, working from the center out in three steps, and then the thrust bearing cap bolts should be tightened to 10-to-12 ft-lbs.