Mopar 5184251AH CRANKSHFT

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To remove the crankshaft, one has to tow the engine out of the car and assuming that the following components have been removed; driveplate, crankshaft pulley, timing belt or chain, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter, oil pump pick-up tube, windage tray and connecting rod/bosses. Before removing measure the crankshaft end play by placing the dial indicator on the crankshaft as shown below. Rotate the crankshaft to the rear and set the indicator to zero then turn it to the front to read the figure, depending on the engine type it should read between 0.003 to 0.010 inch (0.076 to 0.254 mm). In case, one has no dial indicator, feeler gauges can be applied to decent clearance measurement. On 2.4L engines, you will have to remove the bolts holding the ladder frame and detach this from the engine block. It is necessary to use new cap bolts to assemble the engine and the old bolts must be used for shaft oil clearance measurement. Gradually, relieve the primary bearing cap bolts and using a soft-faced hammer tap the cap lightly and then remove the cap gently. Take out the crankshaft if possible, with help, and replace the bedplate/main bearing caps with the arrow pointing forward. It is recommended that during installation the engine block and the crankshaft must be cleaned well and inspected too. The new target wheel has to be installed on 2.4L and on 3.6L engines, using a new bolt which must be tightened in turn. The engine block has to be positioned upside down, the main bearing caps have to be removed and the bearing surfaces have to be cleaned. Set new upper main bearing inserts and make sure the oil holes are in line; fit Thrust washers in the proper journals. Remove the old piston assembly; clean the crankshaft and put it horizontally; check the main bearings oil clearance with the help of Plastigage. Place main bearing caps without removing from the Plastigage and provide proper alignment and torque settings. If the clearance turns out to be marginal with respect to the specified limits it is recommended to investigate whether the bearing is restricted by dirt or oil and decide about replacement of bearing inserts. All Plastigage should be cleaned off just prior to final assembly, and the bearing surfaces and thrust faces should be coated lightly with oil. Reinstallation of crankshaft should be done; the bearing insert faces should be cleaned and treated with oil before fixture of the main bearing caps. After that, with the bolts tightened progressively in horn sequence, check crankshaft end-play again. Revolve the Crank Shaft with your hands and feel whether the Crank Shaft is binding anywhere in its operation. For 2.4L engines use RTV sealant on the engine block base prior to positioning of the ladder frame and doing the tightening of the bolts. Last of all, it is necessary to fit the new rear main oil seal assembly and the oil pump or the pick-up tube.

Crankshaft may be removed only after the engine has been pulled out of the car provided that other accessories including the drive plate, crankshaft pulley, timing chain/belt, oil pan, oil pump, oil filter as well as piston/connecting rod assemblies have been withdrawn. Before the crankshaft removal, clean, and place an initial dial reading on the dial indicator touching the crankshaft. Wedge the crankshaft to the rear to obtain zero on the indicator and then wedge the crankshaft to the front to read the difference; ideal measure of end-float is about 0.003- 0.010 of an inch. In case you do not have the dial indicator consider using feeler gauges to measure the clearance. Tighten the main bearing cap bolts gradually, lightly knock the caps with a light hammer gently and then remove the main bearing cap bolts including caps. Take out the crankshaft as it is rather heavy, it is best to do it in pairs, and replace the main bearing cap assembly with the arrow pointing in front. For installation, then it is required to clean the engine block and the crankshaft and examine it before fixing it. Turn the block over; also, remove the main bearing cap assembly and clean the bearing surfaces. Fit new upper and lower main bearing inserts and check that the oil holes are also in position. Measure the main bearing oil clearance with the Plastigage and adjust to the rang of 0.0015 to 0.0023 inch. If clearance is incorrect, check cleanliness to be further confident and in case there is a need, check on the bearings sizes. Once the Plastigage has been removed clean the bearing surfaces and the thrust faces and apply a coat of grease on them then fit the crankshaft and bearing caps and tighten the bolts to the recommended torque. Recheck crankshaft end play and ensure you turn the crankshaft with an appreciable amount of friction. Last but not least, I then fitted the new rear main oil seal.

The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel or driveplate, crankshaft balancer/vibration damper, timing chain or belt, oil pan, oil pump, counterbalance shafts (if equipped), and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been detached. Before removal, check the endplay by mounting a dial indicator with the stem aligned with the crankshaft, touching one of the crank throws. Push the crankshaft to the rear and zero the dial indicator, then pry it to the front and check the reading; the distance moved indicates the endplay. If it exceeds the specified value, inspect the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear, and if no wear is found, new main bearings should resolve the issue. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used by prying or pushing the crankshaft to the front and slipping the gauges between the crankshaft and the thrust main bearing to measure clearance. Check the main bearing caps for markings indicating their locations, which should be numbered consecutively from front to rear; if not, mark them with number stamping dies or a center-punch, ensuring to make the punch marks near one of the bolt heads. Main bearing caps typically have a cast-in arrow pointing to the front of the engine. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts gradually until they can be removed by hand, noting any stud bolts for proper reinstallation. Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer to separate them from the engine block, using the bolts as levers if necessary, and take care not to drop the bearing inserts. Finally, carefully lift the crankshaft out of the engine, ideally with assistance due to its weight, and with the bearing inserts in place, return the caps to their respective locations on the engine block and tighten the bolts finger tight.

The elimination of the crankshaft requires that the engine be pulled out on the vehicle. Before taking the crankshaft away, it is measured using a dial indicator or feeler gauges to find out about endplay. Therefore, one should gently tap assembly with a soft-face hammer to release it from cylinder block as well as loosen main bearing cap/bedplate bolts. At this stage, another person assists in lifting crankshaft from engine very carefully. During installation, this engine block is placed bottom side up and main bearing cap assembly is removed. In addition, original bearing inserts are taken out and surfaces cleaned. Further still, new upper main bearing inserts are put in all main bearing saddles ensuring oil holes are properly lined up inside them; thrust washers are situated in right journal while lower main bearing inserts fitted into main bearing cap. Then clean faces of blocks with the journal rings and crankpin journals for bearings installations. Afterward, lay crankshaft into its position within cylinder block and verify clearance between it and other parts by using Plastigage method. The following step is putting the main bearing cap assembly onto both crankshaft's one end and cylinder block then fastening nuts appropriately. Now, remove plastigauge and scrape off any burs from contact surface of bearings If necessary lift out piston shaft from inside cylinder through these square windows which enables positioning thin film lubricating fluid on each one of bearings against rotating shaft in its place again similar manner as previously mentioned above before having returned said part back into said surrounding machined aperture there being also supplied with subsequent removal lubricated afterwards cleaning annealed metal surfaces by means again given next words since therefore towards after before although yet because so if otherwise however except along beside etc.; The main bearing cap or bedplate is installed onto the crankshaft and cylinder block, and the bolts are tightened to the specified torque. Re-measure crankshaft endplay and turn it over by hand to ensure that it moves freely. Finally, insert the rear main oil seal.

If the journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round, or worn beyond limits, have the crankshaft reground by an automotive machine shop, ensuring the correct size bearing inserts are used if reconditioned.

The thrust bearings on the 3.0L V6 engine are located at the number three journal.

PER VIN APPLICATION: 5184251AH IS COMPATIBLE 5184249AH NOT SHOWN TO BE A VALID PAT NUMBER.