Mopar 4626054AD Engine Cooling Water Pump

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A faulty water pump can cause engine damage due to overheating. Three ways to check the pump are: squeezing the upper radiator hose while the engine is running at normal temperature, a pressure surge should be felt if the pump is working; checking the weep or vent holes for coolant leaks, a flashlight may be needed; and listening for a howling sound at the engine front, indicating shaft bearing failure. Shaft wear can also be detected by rocking the water pump pulley. Don't confuse drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, with water pump failure.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Drain the cooling system. If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it. Remove the cooling fan and shroud. On inline six-cylinder engines, loosen the pulley-to-water pump bolts and remove the drivebelts and the pulley at the end of the water pump shaft. Loosen the clamps and detach the hoses from the water pump. If they're stuck, grasp each hose near the end with a pair of Channelock pliers and twist it to break the seal, then pull it off. If the hoses are deteriorated, cut them off and install new ones. Remove all accessory brackets from the water pump. When removing the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, don't disconnect the hoses. Tie the units aside with the hoses attached. Keep the power steering pump upright so fluid doesn't spill. Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the engine. Note the locations of the various lengths and different types of bolts as they're removed to ensure correct installation. Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to remove corrosion and sealant. Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they're identical. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the engine with a gasket scraper. Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the engine side of the new gasket. Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the gasket mating surface of the new pump, then carefully mate the gasket and the pump. Slip a couple of bolts through the pump mounting holes to hold the gasket in place. Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and thread the bolts into the holes finger tight. Install the remaining bolts and tighten them to the specified torque in 1/4-turn increments. Note that the three sizes of bolts on V6 engines require different torques. Don't overtighten them or the pump may be distorted. Reinstall all parts removed for access to the pump. Refill the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension. Run the engine and check for leaks.

There are three ways to check the operation of the water pump while it's installed on the engine. If the pump is defective, it should be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, squeeze the upper radiator hose. If the water pump is working properly a pressure surge should be felt as the hose is released. Water pumps are equipped with weep or vent holes. If a failure occurs in the pump seal, coolant will leak from the hole. In most cases, you'll need a flashlight to find the hole on the water pump from underneath to check for leaks. If the water pump shaft bearings fail, there may be a howling sound at the front of the engine while it's running. Shaft wear can be felt if the water pump pulley is rocked up and down. Don't mistake drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, for water pump bearing failure.

Drain the cooling system and remove the cooling fan and shroud, remove the drivebelts and the pulley at the end of the water pump shaft, and for 3.6L engines, also remove the air filter housing and inlet housing.