Mopar 4663618 Seal-CRANKSHAFT Oil

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Remove the crankshaft pulley from the engine. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver, being careful not to nick or gouge the seal bore or the crankshaft. Be careful not to scratch, gouge or distort the area that the seal fits into or an oil leak will develop. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the seal lip (usually the side with the spring) facing IN (toward the engine). A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier - but don't overdo it! Drive the seal into the bore with a seal driver or a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Use a seal driver or a large socket to drive the new seal into the cover. Select a socket that's the same outside diameter as the seal and make sure the new seal is pressed into place until it bottoms against the cover flange. Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil and reinstall the crankshaft pulley. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

To access the crankshaft sprocket remove the crankshaft pulley from the engine. Remove the seal with a seal removal tool, or a large screwdriver, enlarging the area around the seal bore and the crankshaft without damaging them. Seal or interface with the oil should not be scratched, gaoed or otherwise altered in a way that will hinder proper fitting. Scrape out the bore to remove any remnants of the seal material and rust or any other form of corrosion and then place the new seal in the bore of the shaft such that the side of the seal that contains the spring is placed towards the interior of the engine. The use of a small quantity of oil in the outer circumference of the new seal aids installation, although it is not advisable to use considerable amount of oil. Place a seal driver or a large socket over the seal and forcefully hit it with a hammer until the seal is forced into the bore and bottoms on the cover flange while the socket goes around the outside diameter of the seal. Oil the seal lips with the engine oil and then replace the crankshaft pulley. The residual installation steps are done in the reverse manner to the removal process and then a test of the engine should be conducted in order to check the oil leakage.

The dowel pin should be tapped back into the crankshaft, with 3/64-inch extending out.

The seal should be set squarely into the recess of the housing and pressed into place using a piece of wood and a hammer.

No, the rear main seal and housing are serviced as one complete assembly.

Next, remove the rear main oil seal housing bolts and the housing.

Clean the engine block, oil pan, and crankshaft, ensuring the new seal and retainer assembly has the plastic installation sleeve in place.

All models use a one-piece rear main oil seal installed in a bolt-on housing.

The rear main seal and housing are serviced as one complete assembly.

Remove the crankshaft balancer.

Use the proper puller, but do not use a puller with jaws that grip the outer edge of the pulley. The puller must be the type that utilizes bolts or arms to apply force to the pulley hub only. The puller screw must not contact the threads in the nose of the crankshaft; it must use an adapter that allows the puller screw to apply force to the end of the crankshaft nose or a spacer must be inserted into the nose of the crankshaft to protect the threads.

The rear main seal and housing are serviced as one complete assembly.

It is important to avoid scratching, gouging, or distorting the area where the seal fits, as this could lead to an oil leak.

Install the seal in the cover with the lip facing inward, driving it into place with a large socket and hammer, ensuring it enters squarely and is at the proper depth. If a large socket isn't available, a piece of pipe can be used.

Support the cover on two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the backside with a hammer and punch, taking care not to scratch or distort the area where the seal fits to prevent leaks.

Support the cover on two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the backside using a hammer and punch, ensuring not to scratch or distort the area where the seal fits to prevent leaks.

The first step is to remove the oil pans and the driveplate.

Drive the new seal in using a seal driver or a large deep socket and hammer, ensuring it is installed to the same depth as the old one.

The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal.

The first step is to remove the transaxle and then the driveplate.

The oil seal housing retainer bolts should be tightened to the torque.

Use a two-bolt puller to take off the crankshaft sprocket, ensuring the bolts are threaded into the holes in the sprocket.

Ideally, a seal installation tool should be used to press the new seal into place. If this tool is not available, a large socket or blunt tool can be used to carefully drive the new seal into place.

Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil before reinstalling the vibration damper.

Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver, being careful not to nick or gouge the seal bore or the crankshaft.

It can be removed using a two-bolt puller, with the bolts threaded into the holes in the sprocket.

Install the vibration damper bolt and tighten it to the torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal process. Refill the cooling system.

Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion.

To replace the rear main oil seal, the transmission, torque converter, and driveplate must be removed.

The housing must be flush with the plane of the oil pan mating surface of the engine.

The old seal should be pried out with a hook-type seal tool, being careful not to scratch the seal surface of the crankshaft.