Chrysler RL141353AC Cylinder

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This process should only be done when the engine is cool to touch and is best done at the weekend when you do not have to use the car. First of all, it is necessary to take off the primary timing chain and supply with sprockets. However, ensure that you do not move the crankshaft from around the alignment marks in the remainder of the entire process of the strop. Then it is time to take out the camshafts from the cylinder head, rocker arms accompanied by hydraulic lash adjusters, and remember to put labels and numbers to the removed parts to facilitate correct reinstallment of all of them in required positions. Then, it is time to uninstall the lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold(s)-if your car comes equipped with them. If remaining label and remove any coolant fittings, ground straps, cables, hoses, wires, or brackets that are connected to the cylinder head including the water outlet housing by loosing the heater supply tube retaining bolts. Apply a breaker bar and the specific socket that fits the specific bolt, and then turn the bolts in a quarter-turns to unscrew them until you are able to remove them by hand; this should be done in the reverse sequence as the tightening sequence in order to avoid warping or cracking of the head. Remove the cylinder head along with the exhaust manifold bolted on it, in case it is stuck then use a pry bar. All externals should be detached from the cylinder head in order to clean and examine before engaging a professional automotive machine shop for servicing. The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block must be free from any deposit when the head is fitted. Scrape surfaces of the cylinder head and engine block with gasket scraper to remove all carbon and old gasket material without damaging the surfaces After scraping wash the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Any residual oil that remains on the corresponding surfaces of the head after the installation of the gasket maybe insufficient to make a good seal thus resulting in leakage. Before the cylinder is filled with the material, use clean shop rags to pack it in order to minimize accumulation of debris inside the cylinder and for the removal of any material that may have fallen inside the cylinder, a vacuum cleaner is used. Inspect shoulder of block/head for nicks, scratches, or other signs of wear; maximum allowable dimension is 0.025mm; if beyond this, a file may be used to remove the material or you must machine it. What is left can be removed with compressed air This is done by using a tap of the right size to chase the threads of the head bolt holes. Inspect each cylinder head bolt for stretch by taking a metal ruler or a straightedge and laying it on the threads; the fact is that the diameter of the threads of such bolts tends to be necked down somewhere, in which case the bolts are to be replaced. In any case it is recommended that the head bolts are replaced with new ones irrespective of the state they are in. Using a precision straightedge and a set of feeler gauges, check the cylinder head for warpage; if the same is more than the allowable limit, have the head mugged. Replace the head bolts and nuts, trim the 'riblet' edged gasket along with the flange face of the head, and place the new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins present on the block and placing the head over the dowels without further upsetting the position of the gasket. These bolts should be then lubricated with little proportions of clean engine oils before fixing them in position with the chamfered side facing the bolt head and the hardened washers going round the cylinder head. Replace the bolts back to their original positions and fasten them a little and then turn the bolts in stages up to the required torque. Place the lash adjusters and rocker arms in their rightful positions in the cylinder head and fit the camshafts and then fit the primary timing chain and sprockets. The rest of the installation process is, in fact, the reverse of removal. Last but not the least, add more coolant in the cooling system and replace the engine oil along with the oil filter, and crank the engine and inspect for the presence of any oil or coolant leakage.

To remove the components, begin by loosening the lug nuts on the right front wheel, raising the vehicle, and securing it on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel, splash shields, and inner fender liner. Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center and disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal. Remove the engine cover, drain the cooling system, and take out the spark plugs. Next, remove the air filter housing, coolant reservoir, and power steering reservoir without disconnecting the lines. Remove the drivebelts and the intake manifold, covering the intake ports with duct tape. Detach the power steering hose bracket bolt and secure the pump out of the way without disconnecting the hoses. Remove the exhaust manifold, ignition coils, and spark plugs, followed by the valve cover. Take off the water pump pulley, air conditioning compressor, and bracket, then remove the timing chain cover and timing chain. Remove the camshaft bearing caps, camshafts, and lifters, storing the lifters for reinstallation in their original locations. For 2015 and later models, remove the WAA assembly. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in reverse of the tightening sequence until they can be removed by hand, taking notes on their locations. Carefully lift the cylinder head straight up, placing it on wood blocks to prevent damage. If it sticks, dislodge it gently. After removal, use needle nose pliers to take out the WT filter from the engine block and clean all old gasket material from the block and head, ensuring no debris falls into the engine. For installation, place a new or cleaned WT filter into the cylinder block, apply RTV sealant at the timing chain side ends, and position a new gasket and the cylinder head. Check the head bolt threads for gaps and apply clean engine oil before installation. Place washers on the first two head bolts, install the head bolts, and tighten them in stages according to the recommended sequence. Ensure to identify the type of cylinder head bolts for proper torque. The final tightening requires a specific number of degrees, which can be measured with an angle-torque gauge. Reinstall the timing chain and cover, then follow the reverse order for the remaining installation steps. Refill the cooling system, change the engine oil and filter, and rotate the crankshaft clockwise through six complete revolutions, rechecking the camshaft timing marks. Finally, start the engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached, checking for leaks and proper operation.

Drain the cooling system, then remove the air filter housing and the coolant recovery bottle.

Check each cylinder head bolt for stretching using a metal ruler or straightedge; replace any bolts that have necked down.

Label and remove any remaining items attached to the cylinder head, such as coolant fittings, ground straps, cables, hoses, wires, or brackets, including the water outlet housing by detaching the heater supply tube retaining bolts.

Follow the reverse order of removal for the remainder of the installation, concluding with an oil and filter change and refilling the cooling system.

Tighten the bolts in the recommended sequence to the specified torque.

Remove the drivebelts and the intake manifold, covering the intake ports with duct tape.

Take off the timing belt covers, align the TDC marks, and remove the timing belt, marking its direction of rotation if it is to be reused.

Disconnect all wires and vacuum hoses from the cylinder heads, labeling them for reinstallation.

Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes.

It is important to inspect the cylinder head(s) to assess any damage, especially if the engine was severely overheated, as this may cause the cylinder head to warp.

Apply moly-base grease to the rocker arm faces and the shaft.

Remove the exhaust manifold(s) from the cylinder head(s). Note that on 2015 and later Challenger models with 5.7L engines and all models with the 6.4L engine, the exhaust manifolds can only be removed after the cylinder head has been detached.

Remove the power steering pump, heater core tube fasteners, battery and battery tray, and oil dipstick tube fastener.

Before starting, disconnect the batteries' negative terminals and drain the coolant.

Check for wear and pits, measure the free length, and ensure it meets specifications.

Using a new head gasket, outline the cylinders and bolt pattern on cardboard, indicating the front of the engine, and punch holes at the bolt locations.

Install the bolts in their original locations, tightening them finger tight, and then follow the recommended sequence to tighten the bolts in three steps to the specified torque.

New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at dealerships and auto parts stores.

After that, raise and securely support the front of the vehicle and unbolt the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds.

Before removing the cylinder head, you should disconnect all wires and vacuum hoses from the cylinder heads. Also, disconnect the ignition coils and spark plugs. Remove the catalytic converter(s), valve covers, crankshaft pulley, and oil pans.

Complete the remaining installation steps in reverse order. Finally, add coolant, change the engine oil and filter, and start the engine to check for proper operation and leaks.