Chrysler 4792968AD Water Pump

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Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote ground terminal or battery. Set the parking brake, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Drain the cooling system. For the 2.4L four cylinder engine, remove the accessory drivebelt, accessory drivebelt splash shield, water pump pulley bolts, water pump pulley, and water pump mounting bolts. For the 2.7L V6 engine, remove the radiator fan assembly, accessory drivebelt, timing chain and guides, and water pump bolts. For the 3.5L V6 engine, remove the timing belt and water pump mounting bolts. For the 3.6L V6 engine, remove the coolant reservoir tank, right side engine mount, engine mount block from the water pump, lower engine cover, right front wheel, inner fender splash shield, drivebelt, idler pulley, air conditioning compressor, bypass and lower radiator hoses, and water pump mounting bolts. Clean the bolt threads and threaded holes in the timing case cover. Compare the new pump to the old one. Remove all traces of old gasket material or the O-ring seal. Clean the engine and water pump mating surfaces. Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the new water pump O-ring and position it in the groove on the back of the water pump. Install a new seal, then carefully mate the pump to the engine. Install the water pump mounting bolts and tighten them to the torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Refill and bleed the cooling system. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. On 2015 and later models with an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS), disconnect the JBS connector first before disconnecting the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system and remove the engine cooling fan assembly. Remove the drivebelt. For 2.7L V6 engines, remove the timing chain and guides. For 3.SL V6 engines, remove the timing belt. For 3.6L V6 engines, remove the air filter housing and detach the heater hose and lower radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the idler pulley for the drivebelt. For V8 engines, remove the air filter housing and thermostat. Detach the radiator hose from the water pump. Remove the idler pulley and, on later models, the tensioner. On 2011 and later models, remove the heater tube mounting bolt. Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the engine. Clean the bolt threads and threaded holes. Compare the new pump to the old one. Remove all traces of old gasket material or the O-ring seal. Clean the engine and water pump mating surfaces. Apply RTV sealant to the new water pump O-ring or gasket. Attach the pump and O-ring/gasket to the engine and tighten the bolts. Connect the hoses to the water pump and reinstall all removed parts. Refill the cooling system, run the engine, and check for leaks.

A failure in the water pump can cause engine damage. To check the pump, look for coolant leaking from the weep hole and listen for a howling sound. If the pulley is rocked up-and-down, shaft wear can be felt. Don't mistake drivebelt slippage for bearing failure. Replace the pump if it's defective.

A failure in the water pump can cause serious engine damage due to overheating. If a failure occurs at the pump seal, it's common for coolant to leak from around that area. On V6 engines, the water pump is driven by a timing belt or chain and is located at the front of the engine, but covered. On 3.5L V6 engines, if you notice coolant under the front of the vehicle, look at the bottom of the lower timing belt cover (behind the crankshaft pulley). Coolant leaks in this area usually indicate a failing water pump seal. On 2.7L V6 engine models, a failed seal may direct fluid to the "valley" of the motor and eventually leak out the back side of the engine. In this case, suspect water pump failure before other major engine leaks first. On the 5.7L V8 engine, the water pump is externally mounted and weep holes may be visible. Using a flashlight, look for traces of coolant residue or dried coolant tracks around the weep hole(s). If the seal has leaked, it should be very apparent. If the water pump is making noise, the impeller shaft bearing most likely has worn out. On VB models, this can sometimes be confirmed by removing the drivebelt and wiggling the water pump drive pulley. Don't mistake drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, for water pump bearing failure. A quick water pump performance check is to put the heater on. If the pump is failing, it may not be able to efficiently circulate hot water all the way to the heater core as it should.

On V6 engines, the water pump is driven by a timing belt or chain and is located at the front of the engine, but covered.

Set the parking brake, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Drain the cooling system.

On the 5.7L V8 engine, the water pump is externally mounted and weep holes may be visible. Using a flashlight, look for traces of coolant residue or dried coolant tracks around the weep hole(s). If the seal has leaked, it should be very apparent.

Remove the engine cooling fan assembly.

Remove the drivebelts, pulley, and alternator. On air-conditioned models, unbolt the compressor but don't disconnect the lines. Loosen clamps and detach hoses from the water pump, and then remove the bolts and detach the water pump and housing from the engine.

Remove the timing belt.

Remove the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts and the accessory drivebelt bracket and timing belt. Remove the water pump bolts and detach it from the engine. Clean the bolt threads and threaded holes, and compare the new pump to the old one to ensure they're identical. Remove any old gasket material and clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces. Apply ATV sealant to the new water pump O-ring for four-cylinder engines or to the gasket mating surface for 3.7L V6 engines. Attach the pump and O-ring/gasket to the engine and tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. For 4.0L engines, install a new O-ring seal in the water pump groove and carefully mate the pump to the engine. Install the water pump mounting bolts and tighten them. Reinstall all parts that were removed for access to the pump, refill the cooling system, and check for leaks.

Remove the engine cooling fan assembly.

Yes, it is possible for a water pump to be bad, even if it doesn't howl or leak water. Sometimes the fins on the back of the impeller can corrode away until the pump is no longer effective. The only way to check for this is to remove the pump for examination.