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Genuine Dodge Avenger Cylinder Head
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38 Cylinder Heads found
Dodge Avenger Head&Valve-Cylinder
Part Number: 68227451AA$1064.64 MSRP: $1155.00You Save: $90.36 (8%)
Dodge Avenger Head Kit-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68004168AD$895.25 MSRP: $1095.00You Save: $199.75 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head&Valve-Cylinder
Part Number: 68141352AE$836.95 MSRP: $1025.00You Save: $188.05 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head Pkg-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68004168AB$895.25 MSRP: $1095.00You Save: $199.75 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: RL141352AB$836.95 MSRP: $1025.00You Save: $188.05 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head&Valve-Cylinder
Part Number: RL141352AD$836.95 MSRP: $1025.00You Save: $188.05 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head Kit-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68004168AC$895.25 MSRP: $1095.00You Save: $199.75 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head Pkg-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68034276AB$1785.15 MSRP: $2170.00You Save: $384.85 (18%)
Dodge Avenger Head Pkg-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68034276AC$1785.15 MSRP: $2170.00You Save: $384.85 (18%)
Dodge Avenger Head Pkg-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68034276AD$1785.15 MSRP: $2170.00You Save: $384.85 (18%)
Dodge Avenger Head Pkg-Engine Cylinder
Part Number: 68004168AA$895.25 MSRP: $1095.00You Save: $199.75 (19%)
Dodge Avenger Head&VALV-Cylinder
Part Number: R3602014AA$701.30 MSRP: $1065.00You Save: $363.70 (35%)
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1-20 of 38 Results
Dodge Avenger Cylinder Head
Looking for affordable and high-quality auto parts? Then you have already arrived at the proper online shop. We offer all Dodge Avenger Cylinder Head at great affordable prices. Moreover, all genuine Dodge Avenger Cylinder Head come with a manufacturer's warranty. In the long run, you would realize you have saved a lot of trouble and money with OEM parts from here.
Dodge Avenger Cylinder Head Parts Questions & Experts Answers
- Q: What precautions and steps should be taken when replacing a cylinder head in 2.7L V6 engine on Dodge Avenger?A: This process should only be done when the engine is cool to touch and is best done at the weekend when you do not have to use the car. First of all, it is necessary to take off the primary timing chain and supply with sprockets. However, ensure that you do not move the crankshaft from around the alignment marks in the remainder of the entire process of the strop. Then it is time to take out the camshafts from the cylinder head, Rocker Arms accompanied by hydraulic Lash Adjusters, and remember to put labels and numbers to the removed parts to facilitate correct reinstallment of all of them in required positions. Then, it is time to uninstall the lower intake manifold and exhaust manifold(s)-if your car comes equipped with them. If remaining label and remove any coolant fittings, ground straps, cables, hoses, wires, or brackets that are connected to the cylinder head including the water outlet housing by loosing the heater supply tube retaining bolts. Apply a breaker bar and the specific socket that fits the specific bolt, and then turn the bolts in a quarter-turns to unscrew them until you are able to remove them by hand; this should be done in the reverse sequence as the tightening sequence in order to avoid warping or cracking of the head. Remove the cylinder head along with the exhaust manifold bolted on it, in case it is stuck then use a pry bar. All externals should be detached from the cylinder head in order to clean and examine before engaging a professional automotive machine shop for servicing. The mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block must be free from any deposit when the head is fitted. Scrape surfaces of the cylinder head and engine block with gasket scraper to remove all carbon and old gasket material without damaging the surfaces After scraping wash the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Any residual oil that remains on the corresponding surfaces of the head after the installation of the gasket maybe insufficient to make a good seal thus resulting in leakage. Before the cylinder is filled with the material, use clean shop rags to pack it in order to minimize accumulation of debris inside the cylinder and for the removal of any material that may have fallen inside the cylinder, a vacuum cleaner is used. Inspect shoulder of block/head for nicks, scratches, or other signs of wear; maximum allowable dimension is 0.025mm; if beyond this, a file may be used to remove the material or you must machine it. What is left can be removed with compressed air This is done by using a tap of the right size to chase the threads of the head bolt holes. Inspect each cylinder head bolt for stretch by taking a metal ruler or a straightedge and laying it on the threads; the fact is that the diameter of the threads of such bolts tends to be necked down somewhere, in which case the bolts are to be replaced. In any case it is recommended that the head bolts are replaced with new ones irrespective of the state they are in. Using a precision straightedge and a set of feeler gauges, check the cylinder head for warpage; if the same is more than the allowable limit, have the head mugged. Replace the head bolts and nuts, trim the 'riblet' edged gasket along with the flange face of the head, and place the new cylinder head gasket over the dowel pins present on the block and placing the head over the dowels without further upsetting the position of the gasket. These bolts should be then lubricated with little proportions of clean engine oils before fixing them in position with the chamfered side facing the bolt head and the hardened washers going round the cylinder head. Replace the bolts back to their original positions and fasten them a little and then turn the bolts in stages up to the required torque. Place the lash adjusters and rocker arms in their rightful positions in the cylinder head and fit the camshafts and then fit the primary timing chain and sprockets. The rest of the installation process is, in fact, the reverse of removal. Last but not the least, add more coolant in the cooling system and replace the engine oil along with the oil filter, and crank the engine and inspect for the presence of any oil or coolant leakage.
