Mopar 5171140AB Exhaust Manifold And Catalytic Converter

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To replace the catalytic converters on various engine models, start by raising the vehicle and securing it on jackstands. If applicable, spray penetrating oil on nuts and bolts for easier loosening. For 2.4L engines (2014 and earlier), remove the oxygen sensor and rear portion of the exhaust system, then detach the converter from the exhaust manifold. For 2.7L engines, remove the front exhaust manifold/catalytic converter by disconnecting oxygen sensors and other components. For rear exhaust manifold/catalytic converter, remove the engine cover, splash shield, crossunder pipe, and oxygen sensors. For 3.5L engines, remove the front and rear exhaust manifold/catalytic converters by disconnecting oxygen sensors and other fasteners. For 3.6L engines, remove the rear catalytic converter by loosening clamps and fasteners, then guide the converter out from the bottom. Before installing the converter, use anti-seize compound on threads and tighten the fasteners securely. Installation is the reverse of removal for all models.

To replace the catalytic converters on various engine models, start by raising the vehicle and securing it on jackstands. If applicable, spray penetrating oil on nuts and bolts for easier loosening. For 2.4L engines (2014 and earlier), remove the oxygen sensor and rear portion of the exhaust system, then detach the converter from the exhaust manifold. For 2.7L engines, remove the front exhaust manifold/catalytic converter by disconnecting oxygen sensors and other components. For rear exhaust manifold/catalytic converter, remove the engine cover, splash shield, crossunder pipe, and oxygen sensors. For 3.5L engines, remove the front and rear exhaust manifold/catalytic converters by disconnecting oxygen sensors and other fasteners. For 3.6L engines, remove the rear catalytic converter by loosening clamps and fasteners, then guide the converter out from the bottom. Before installing the converter, use anti-seize compound on threads and tighten the fasteners securely. Installation is the reverse of removal for all models.

To access the manifold for replacement, put off the car's negative terminal and take off the air filter system. Enable the motor to cool so that the coolant is almost drained and eliminate the coolant bypass tube if required. Remove the crossed bolt of the exhaust system and you can get the lower bolt situated at the engine area. The exhaust manifold heat shield must be unbolted then detached appropriately from its position. Remove all the mounting bolts of the manifold and use penetrating lubricant during the process of removing the manifold and the cylinder head. Remove the old gasket and the mating surfaces to ensure that there is no deposit on them and also you should inspect the manifold for distortions and cracks by using a straight edge to check for warpage. Install the exhaust manifold in position with a new gasket and tighten the mounting bolts using finger only, and ensure that the precise position of the gasket is used. Round off the bolts from the middle and continue tightening to the torque level. If there is any of the higher or higher numbered part left reinstall them in the reverse sequence, then engage the engine to check for exhaust leak. To access the rear manifold, you have to remove the negative battery cable and the EGR tube and then remove the heat shield and the cross over pipe nuts. Remove the wire of the oxygen sensor, engage the parking brake, chock the rear wheels and then jack-up the front part of the car on jack-stands. Before that, loosen the two-exhaust pipe to manifold bolts-if necessary, apply penetrating oil-and then take off the exhaust manifold. Copper to be cleaned with surfaces belonging to the mating part to be checked for warpage and cracks, the process followed is the previous inspection process. Locate the new exhaust manifold into position adding a new gasket, tighten the bolts only slightly in the center and then tighten in a circular motion outward fashion. Install the other components back in reverse manner and the start the engine and check for exhaust leakages.

Clean the mating surfaces to eliminate old gasket material and inspect the manifold for distortion and cracks, checking for warpage with a precision straightedge. If necessary, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing.

Begin by removing the engine cover and disconnecting the negative battery terminal.

Lower the vehicle, remove the heat shield secured by four bolts, and then unscrew the manifold mounting bolts, guiding the manifold upward out of the engine compartment.

Block the rear wheels, set the parking brake, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on jackstands.

If necessary, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing.

Remove the mounting bolts and detach the manifold from the cylinder head, ensuring to spray penetrating oil on the bolts beforehand.

Remove the intake manifold fasteners, lower the vehicle, and remove the throttle body and intake manifold as a single assembly, detaching the throttle body and gasket from the intake manifold after placing the unit on the bench.

For the rear manifold, remove the air cleaner assembly and intake ducting.

To check for a restricted converter, you can use a vacuum gauge to diagnose the effect of a blocked exhaust on intake vacuum. By following the steps of opening the throttle until the engine speed is about 2000 rpm and then releasing the throttle quickly, you can determine if there is a restriction. If the gauge doesn't show a significant increase in reading or seems to momentarily hover around its highest reading before returning, it indicates a plugged exhaust system or converter.